Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Armistice Day

I thought it would be appropriate to write about the National Wold War I Museum and Liberty Memorial on the commemoration of the last day of that war. Though the day is now celebrated as Veterans' Day, for all the other men and women who have served our country throughout the years, I still find myself refering to it as Armistice Day and then getting funny looks from people who dare to try to have conversations with me. And by dare I mean "are actually trying to comprehend the things I say and formulate a logical sequence".

But when my mother came to visit about a month ago, I took that opportunity to check out somethings in my hood that I wouldn't go to on a regular basis. One of those things was Memorial and Museum. I've passed it a hundred times, seen the flame at the top of the tower at night (*spoiler* - it's all lights and steam, which is good considering the energy crisis), and even walked around the grounds once, but I'd never gone in the museum. I'm not a war fan, though I guess what I should say is that war, its history and its tools, doesn't fascinate me the why it fascinates many other people.

But my mom enjoys a good museum, regardless of content, and I'd been wanting the check it out (as it is the only one in the US) since I moved to Kansas City. And I wanted to go up in the big tower, because what else is a big tower for if not for going up in? I ask you.

I allotted two hours, after lunch, for the museum. I figured that two hours would be more than enough time, as my mother reads every single piece of literature for every single exhibit and does every single interactive game that museum curators can come up with.

However, we decided that we'd go right after breakfast, then have the afternoon free for other sight seeing around town. We went to the museum and walked arond outside the grounds for a bit (it was unexpectedly sunny and warm and I didn't want to jink the pleasant weather by going into the bowels of the earth and ignoring it) taking pictures of the big tower, the sphinxes, a beetle that was there, too, and looked interesting.

It was a good thing we started our day there and that we didn't have specific plans for the rest of the day. Our easy two hour overview became an intense three hours - we left for lunch (which you don't have to do, as there is a cafe) - plus another hour and a half later on. We could have stayed longer if they'd have let us. Much, much longer.

The museum is made up of three parts - the main part of the museum is under the earth, very symbolic of all the fallen soldiers, and the other two halls above, making up part of the Liberty Memorial scene. Going up in the tower is a seperate fee, but the whole thing is well worth the $10 adult admission. We did the two Halls and the tower after a late lunch, therefore didn't have as much time as we would have liked. The tower closes at 4:15, so we went up there for as long as they'd let us, then into the Halls. In the first Hall (sorry, I can't remember what it's called), the one to the West, the guard immediately started telling us the significance of the huge mural that commanded the wall. All through the museum, guards, some of them I suspect of being volunteers, would come up while we were looking at a specific exhibit or item and give us more information, a bit of interest, or make a connection with what we were seeing and another aspect of the museum. Extremely friendly and well informed.

Refering to the mural, however, I could not imagine the enormity of the finished product, let alone the manhours and skill spent painting this epic. What you see there is not even the finished product, as impressive as it is. Because of neglect and space constraints, much of the painting had been cut away, or repositioned. In fact, the largest part of the intact painting is in the West Hall, and sections are displayed in the East Hall. Also in the East Hall are computers showing what the finished product had looked like, as a giant panorama of the victorious Allies. You can highlight each figure and read about their significance during WWI. I wish, wish, wish we'd had more time there.

The tower was interesting, as well, if in fact just a large tower. I speak only for myself, but I love seeing all over the city, especially a city that I enjoy so much. There are similar things in Paris, London, New York and Chicago, and I see no reason why Kansas City's contribution to very tall buildings shouldn't be just as recognizable.

The main section of the museum is the most impressive part, even barring huge murals and skyline views. You first walk across a glass bridge to the musem, under which is a symbolic field of poppies. This is lit by skylights and i couldn't imagine a more beautiful or appropriate entrance. Once inside, you start out with a 12 minute "up to the start of the war" documentary, which fills in all the necessary information about why and how all these different countries ended up being at war, and why this war was, to a certain extent, unavoidable. Even if you know your WWI history, I wouldn't skip it, as it sets the tone for the rest of your time. The area of the musem, while divided mainly into "Before the US was involved" and "After the US was involved", is a large open space, but with so much paraphernalia that it seems downright cozy. You are led chronologically through a horse shoe shaped main area. Around the center there is a wall that cites, month to month, the progress of the war. It also includes data tidbits, like what was being invented, or who won a Nobel Prize. Included there are a few instances of Kansas City trivia, emphasizing the "hereness" of the war.

The whole museum makes the war, this war that my parents weren't alive for, which some of our grandparents might not have participated in, and which happened far from our homes - it makes it a present, and local, entity to remember. All over the world people were being affected in major ways, their entire way of life being altered. To see how each countries' people reacted is also an insightful inclusion.

The creativity behind the exhibits is inspiring. Though decorated in black, white, muted browns and the judicious use of vibrant red, attention is drawn from case to case, wall to wall, and room to room. There is propaganda from all over the world, including my favorite, French toilet paper with a picture of the Kaiser on it. Each exhibit has some quote taken from a child's diary or soldier's journal, something that humanizes the guns, the uniforms, the grenades. There is a series of trenches reconstructed, with recorded voices to describe the soldiers experiences. There is even a reconstructed crater hole, meant to look like it has exploded a house and this is the detritus left over.

One of the most best uses of space (in a place that seems to never end with its tucked away little corners) is in the submarine/airplane warfare. They have the requisite missile, a diorama of flight sequences, the stats for the aces throughout the war. But they also are projecting movies on to the floor. The airplane one is interesting, but the one of the ship blew my mind. It looks as though you are standing on the ship. You even see it launch a torpedo. Very, very cool.

I could continue to expound on the incredible treasure we have here, but I'd rather you experience it for yourself. But let me know when you plan on going, so I can check if I'm free, too.

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